Important Disclaimer
This article provides general educational information about verifying 90% silver coins. It is not professional authentication advice and should not be relied upon for high-value transactions or investment decisions.
For significant purchases or coins with potential numismatic value, consult a professional coin dealer or third-party grading service. The verification methods described here are practical checks used by collectors and investors, not definitive authentication procedures.
The Critical Date Cutoff: Pre-1965 U.S. Silver
The most important verification point for 90% silver coins is the date. The U.S. Mint ended 90% silver coinage after 1964 due to rising silver prices and hoarding. Understanding this history is essential for verification.
For dimes and quarters: Coins dated 1964 or earlier contain 90% silver. Coins dated 1965 or later are copper-nickel clad with no silver content. There are no exceptions to this rule for circulating U.S. dimes and quarters.
For half dollars: The situation is more nuanced. 1964 and earlier Kennedy, Franklin, Walking Liberty, and Barber half dollars are 90% silver. However, 1965-1970 Kennedy half dollars contain 40% silver (not 90%). From 1971 onward, circulating half dollars contain no silver.
Common Coins in 90% Silver Bags
A typical 90% silver bag contains Roosevelt dimes (1946-1964), Washington quarters (1932-1964), and various half dollars (Kennedy 1964, Franklin 1948-1963, Walking Liberty 1916-1947). Older types like Mercury dimes (1916-1945) and Barber coins may also appear.
All these coins share the 90% silver, 10% copper alloy established by the original Coinage Acts. The silver content per dollar of face value (0.715 troy ounces) is consistent across all denominations.
Visual and Date Verification
Start by examining the date on each coin. This is the fastest and most reliable check. If the date reads 1965 or later (for dimes and quarters), the coin is not 90% silver regardless of appearance.
Dates can sometimes be difficult to read on heavily worn coins. Look for the date in its standard location: on the obverse (front) of the coin, typically near the bottom rim. Use adequate lighting and magnification if needed.
Be aware that some dates are more prone to wear than others. If you cannot read the date at all, examine the edge of the coin (discussed below) as a secondary check. The PCGS Photograde tool provides examples of wear patterns at various grades.
Weight and Diameter Basics
Weight provides a useful secondary verification. Silver coins are heavier than their clad counterparts due to silver's higher density. A precision scale (accurate to 0.1 gram) can help identify mismatches.
Standard weights for 90% silver coins: Roosevelt/Mercury dimes weigh 2.50 grams. Washington/Barber quarters weigh 6.25 grams. Kennedy/Franklin half dollars weigh 12.50 grams. Clad versions weigh noticeably less.
Diameter is consistent: dimes are 17.9mm, quarters are 24.3mm, and half dollars are 30.6mm. These measurements are the same for silver and clad versions, so diameter alone doesn't distinguish them, but it helps identify altered or counterfeit coins.
Using Weight as a Verification Tool
Weigh suspicious coins and compare to specifications. A quarter weighing 5.67 grams instead of 6.25 grams is likely clad, not silver. Keep in mind that worn coins may weigh slightly less than specifications due to metal loss.
For bulk verification of bags, weigh sample coins randomly selected from the bag. If multiple coins match silver specifications, the bag is likely legitimate. The NGC coin specifications provide authoritative weight and dimension data.
The Edge Color Test
One of the most reliable visual checks is examining the coin's edge. This test is definitive for distinguishing silver from clad coins and requires no special equipment.
90% silver coins display a uniform silver-gray color on the edge. The entire cross-section appears as a single consistent metal tone because the coin is solid silver alloy throughout.
Clad coins show a distinctive copper stripe sandwich visible on the edge. You'll see a copper-colored core layer between two outer layers. This copper stripe is unmistakable once you know to look for it.
Performing the Edge Check
Hold the coin at an angle under good lighting and examine the edge (the thin side). Silver coins will appear uniformly colored. Clad coins will clearly show the layered copper-nickel-copper structure.
This test works even on worn coins because the edge composition doesn't change with circulation. It's quick, free, and highly reliable for distinguishing 90% silver from post-1964 clad coinage.
The Magnet Test and Its Limitations
Silver is not magnetic. A strong magnet (neodymium magnets work well) should slide slowly off a silver coin rather than sticking or sliding quickly. This can help identify certain fakes made from magnetic metals.
However, the magnet test has significant limitations. Many non-silver metals are also non-magnetic, including copper, nickel, and zinc. A coin passing the magnet test is not necessarily silver; it simply isn't made of iron or steel.
Use the magnet test as one data point among several, not as definitive proof. Sophisticated counterfeits could use non-magnetic base metals. The test is most useful for quickly identifying obvious fakes made from cheap magnetic metals.
The Sound Test: Approach with Caution
Silver coins produce a distinctive, high-pitched ring when dropped on a hard surface. Clad coins produce a duller, flatter sound. Experienced collectors can often distinguish silver by ear.
However, this test requires practice and a trained ear. It's subjective and can be influenced by surface conditions, how the coin is dropped, and background noise. Don't rely on the sound test alone.
If you want to develop this skill, practice with known silver and clad coins first. Drop coins from a consistent height onto the same surface and listen carefully to the difference. Over time, the distinction becomes more apparent.
What to Expect: Normal Circulation Wear
Coins in 90% silver bags were circulated as everyday money for years or decades. Expect wear ranging from light (details slightly softened) to heavy (major design elements partially worn away). This is normal and expected.
Circulation wear does not significantly affect silver content or investment value. A heavily worn quarter still contains approximately 0.1808 troy ounces of silver, the same as an uncirculated example. You're buying silver by weight, not collector grade.
What to watch for: coins with holes, heavy damage, or severe corrosion may trade at discounts. However, normal wear, toning, and minor scratches are standard for junk silver and don't affect melt value. The PCGS grading standards explain how wear affects coin grade, though grading is less relevant for melt-value purchases.
Bag Contents Vary
A typical 90% silver bag contains a mix of coins with varying wear levels. Some will be lightly circulated with clear details; others may be heavily worn. This variation is normal and reflects how these coins circulated over decades.
Dealers selling 90% bags price by face value and silver content, not by individual coin condition. As long as the coins are authentic and 90% silver, the wear level doesn't affect the transaction price. For reference on coin values, see understanding silver coin worth.
When to Seek Professional Help
For routine 90% silver bag purchases from reputable dealers, the checks described above are sufficient. However, certain situations warrant professional authentication.
Consider professional grading services like PCGS authentication or NGC if you're buying from an unknown source, the purchase involves significant money, individual coins appear to have numismatic value beyond melt, or anything seems suspicious.
Reputable dealers stand behind their products. If you purchase from an established coin dealer or precious metals dealer with a solid reputation, they've already performed verification. Your role is to spot-check, not authenticate every coin.